SENECA VALLEY TROUT UNLIMITED 
ROD BUILDING CLASS - HANDOUT

1. INTRODUCTION
2. MATERIALS
	A. ROD BLANK
		1). MATERIALS/CONSTRUCTION
			Bamboo
			Fiberglass
			Graphite - different modulus 
				Graphite I, II, III
				IM6, IM7, IM8
		2).  ACTION
			Tip flex (fast action)
			Mid Flex
			Full flex
			
			Put rod together, 45-90 degree twist

			Action Evaluation Methods
				Common Cents Approach (Pennies)
				Alternate Methods
			a. Hold butt in hand
				Put at 45 degrees to floor
				Let weight of rod rest on tip
				Where the rod flexes is a beginning indicator for its 
				action
				If it stiff and only flexes near the tip, it probably is a 
				Tip flex
			b. Tape on guides
				Try three line weight lines and cast
				Recommended wt, and one heavier and lighter
			c. Put curve in rod
				Measure chord depth
					Max chord depth
					Middle for soft action - good for rout/short 
					distance
					1/3 way from middle to tip - moderate
					1/2 way from middle to tip – fast; saltwater?
		3).  NUMBER OF SECTIONS
			2, 3, 4, 5  - try it first
		4).  SELECTION
			Pick weight line/rod needed for type and weight of fish, style of 
			fishing – dry fly, nymph, streamer
	B.  SEATS
		1).  CONSTRUCTION
			a.  All aluminum/graphite
			b.  Aluminum and wood, norm
			c.  Nickel-silver plated ($$)
			d.  Cork - <3 wt
		2).  SIZE
			a.  Large – Saltwater (Full wells)
			b.  Medium - 7-9 WT (Full wells)
			c.  Small - <7wt , reversed half wells
		3).  UP/DOWN LOCKING
			a.  Up locking gives better balance
			b.  Down locking traditional, better for two handed rods
	C.  GRIPS
		1).  REVERSED HALF WELLS - recessed for seat; the norm 
		2)   FULL WELLS - 7 wt+
		3).  FIGHTING BUTTS - 7 wt + but are seen on 4 wt+ now
	D.  GUIDES
		1).  STRIPPING
			a.  CONSTRUCTION - Ceramic ring, alloy, not snake
			b.  SIZE/NUMBER
			See chart, first is stripping on 6<, two on larger rods
		2).  SNAKE
			a.  SINGLE/DOUBLE FOOT
			b.  SIZE/NUMBER - 9’- 10 + tip; 8’- 9 + tip 							(Length in feet + 1)
		3).  TIP TOP - Std and large
		4).	KEEPER - Trout Rods Only
	E.  WINDING CHECK
		Where cork ends, at top of grip, just below keeper - rubber OK
		($.50), aluminum better ($2), nickel silver best ($6)
	F.  EQUIPMENT/SUPPLIES
		1).  ROD WRAPPER
			a.  Cardboard Box 
			b.  Make one of pine 1X6s, cut “V”, line V with milk carton 
				plastic, not felt, or install shower stall door wheels, ($6)
		2).  GLUE/ADHESIVE
			a.  ROD TIP - melt with match - type, rod-tip glue stick,
			easy to remove, you will wear them out
			b.  SEAT/GRIP - Epoxy
				(1).  Not 5-minute ever, as it is not waterproof
				(2).  2 Ton
		3).  THREAD -NYLON, SIZE A
		4).  TOOLS
			a.  X-ACTO KNIFE
			b.  BRUSHES
			c.  MIXING CUPS - only rod building ones
			d.  STIRRERS - no wood
		5).  CHEMICALS
			a.  EPOXY - NO 5 MINUTE
			b.  THINNERS - Acetone-epoxy thinner
			c.  CLEANERS - Isopropyl/rubbing alcohol
			d.  ROD FINISH - Flex Coat -Reg or Lite
			e.  CLEANING RAG - Chem-Wipe, lintless
			f.  HARD AS NAILS - Nail Polish
3.  CONSTRUCTION
	A.  BLANK
		1).  FINDING SPINE
			a.  Put masking tape around section
			b.  Put base of section on magazine
			c.  Bend middle of section, put pressure on base
			d.  Roll section to find two spines 
			e.  Largest jump is primary spine
		2).  MARKING SPINE
			a.  Mark tape with line parallel to rod at middle of jump
	B.  SEAT
		1).  FITTING
			a.  Fiberglass drywall seam tape, three places where 					seat goes
			b.  Smooth, snug fit
			c.  Front, middle, rear of seat area, 1/8” in from front/rear
			d.  Secure with thread (removed later)
		2).  GLUING
			a.  Regular Gel Epoxy, not 5 minute, mix 1 minute
			b.  Apply to all taped areas and in between
			c.  Install, align with spine, wipe, and leave vertical, dry 
			overnight
	C.  CORK GRIP
		1).  FITTING
			a.  I use a drill to drill different size from each end until it is 
			close, then use the file
			b.  10” medium/fine round (rat-tail) file
			c.  File until grip will drop to 1/2” to 1” from seat, push into 				place
		2).  GLUING
			a.  Regular epoxy, not 5 minute, rough up with 320 wet/dry 
			sandpaper
			b.  Slide into place, wipe excess epoxy off, use alcohol 	if 
			needed
			c.  Install winding check
	D.  GUIDES
		1).  ALIGN WITH SPINE, SAME SIDE AS SPINE
		2).  PREPARE GUIDES
			a.  Smooth sides to slightly rounded tip of foot
			b.  Smooth bottom to slightly round underneath to match 
			rod diameter, taper to tip of foot, no burrs
		3).  MOUNT TIP TOP
			a.  Cut slivers of rod tip glue stick
			b.  Put in tip top
			c.  Heat tiptop
			d.  Put on rod, align with spine
		4).  MOUNT GUIDES, KEEPER
			a.  Mount winding check
			b.  Measure from loop in tiptop to center of guide ring
			c.  Tape in place, 1/2” for snake, 1/8” for single foot; I use a 
			tiny bit of rod tip glue, just a size 24 fly body bit, to just
			hold the guide in place, it is really easier than tape
			d.  Double legs towards grip
			e.  To align, look from back, same amount of guide on each 
			side
			f.  To move, hold guide, turn rod
	E.  WRAPPING GUIDES/FERRULES
		1).  Don’t touch thread if possible
		2).  Start 1/16” from guide foot, about 6 wraps
		3).  Put one wrap of thread around, cross over thread to lock, 				wrap 2 more turns, cut loose end
		4).  Wrap to 6 turns from end of foot - Do not wrap to where foot 
		lifts from rod,  stop 2 threads short
		5).  Place loop of thread over foot, lose ends toward wrapped end  
		6).  Finish wrapping, hold thread, cut end, place in loop, pull loop
		to pull loose end snug with wrap, cut off 1/32” from loop, pull 
		through wrap 
		7).  To make trim wrap, wrap away from guide normally, make trim 
		wrap 1/8” from foot, 4 wraps, slide over  by fingernail to be 
		flush with basic wrap
	F.  FINISHING
		1).  EVERYTHING CLEAN
		2).  WRAPS PREPARED - Burnish if wanted, normally not needed 
		for fly rods
		3).  MIXING FINISH
			a.  Heat epoxy in hot water
			b.  Mix one line (1/64”) in syringe more resin than hardener 
			from syringe
			c.  Thin with 1 - 2 drops of acetone per 4 cc if needed
			d.  Mix for 2 minutes, when no milky swirls when mixing
		4).  APPLYING FINISH - 2 THIN COATS
			a.  Cut brush to 1/4 inch
			b.  Do one to two sections at a time
			c.  7 minutes working time
			d.  Start 1/32” - two threads out from wrap
			e.  Apply to middle of wrap flow out to either end
			f.  Apply one heavy coat to fully cover threads
			g.  Use clean hair blow dryer on medium/high heat to flow 
			epoxy and move it around
		5).  IT WON’T HARDEN - Coat with “hard as nails”
		6).  IT HAS FUZZIES/BUBBLES
			a.  Cut fuzzies with razor, recoat
			b.  Bubbles - still wet - Blow dryer 6-8” from wrap, moving 
			blower, not too hot. Put hand in back of wrap, not too 
			hot on hand

GUIDE SIZE AND LOCATION [Go online for actual measurements of spacing, optional sizes] 
 
9 FOOT 9 WT
Stripping	16
1		12
2		 6
3		 5
4		 4
5		 3
6		 3
7		 2
8		 2
9		 2

9 FOOT 5 WT
Stripping	12
1		 4
2		 3
3		 2
4		 2
5		 2
6		 1
7		 1
8		 1
9		 1

8 FOOT 5 WT
Stripping	12
1		 4
2		 3
3		 2
4		 2
5		 2
6		 1
7		 1
8		 1

7’6” FOOT 5 WT
Stripping	12
1		 4
2		 3
3		 2
4		 2
5		 1
6		 1
7		 1

					Don Campbell